Adams Gardens Nursery

The Mythological Tradition and Symbolism of Christmas Trees

Adams Gardens — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 23:16:39 +0000

Before you come out to the Adams Gardens Nursery this year to hunt for the perfect Christmas conifer, we’d like to share with you some Christmas Tree trivia. Over 35 million American families will celebrate this holiday season with a live Christmas Tree, participating in a symbolic tradition that reaches as far back as human civilization itself. The most common tree myth, spread across cultures and the centuries that pass them by, is the myth of the Tree of Life, which is the point of origin for the modern Christmas Tree, amongst others.
The mythological roots of the Christmas Tree tradition harkens back to the ancient Roman festival “Saturnalia,” referring to the Roman god Saturn, the equivalent of the Greek god Cronus, father to the famous pantheon of gods we recognize from classic mythology. The Saturnalia holiday, which was held in honor of the Golden Age when Saturn reigned over Italy, was marked by a great winter feast. “The idea of it was that the Golden Age returned to earth during the days [the holiday] lasted. No war could be then declared; slaves and masters ate at the same table; executions were postponed; it was the season for giving presents; it kept alive in men’s minds the idea of equality, of a time when they were all on the same level.” (Hamilton 46)
The first recorded reference to the Christmas Tree as we recognize it dates to the 16th century, to a part of ancient Germany- families of all status decorated fir trees with colored paper, fruits and other treats. The retail Christmas Tree also has it’s roots in the same period; spinsters would harvest trees to sell from surrounding forests. By the eighteen century the tradition of decorating Christmas Trees had become a cultural custom across Europe and the many European colonies. From that point on, the popularity of the Christmas Tree snowballed.
Franklin Pierce, our 14th President, brought the Christmas Tree tradition to the White House. In 1923, President Calvin Coolidge started the National Christmas Tree Lighting Ceremony, now held every year on the White House Lawn. Many national cities since then have introduced their own Christmas Tree celebrations.
Several Idaho cities celebrate their own Christmas Tree celebrations, but the largest and most frequently attended is the Boise Downtown Holiday Tree Lighting celebration, held every year in the state capital. This years Tree Lighting Celebration will be held on Saturday, November 28th 2009, from 5-7 PM. The celebration will include the lighting of the tree by the Mayor of Boise, a candle lighting ceremony amongst the families present, and rounds of Christmas carols. For the entire itinerary, visit the event website: http://http://www.downtownboise.org/m_events/dba_holiday_tree_lighting.cfm. Or better yet, begin a new tradition by starting a tree-lighting ceremony of your own with a hand picked, fresh-cut tree from Adams Gardens tree nursery.

Preventing and Treating Chlorosis

Adams Gardens — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 23:02:09 +0000

Chlorosis, or yellowing, refers to plant leaves that are become faded-green or yellowed, rather than a healthy, dark green color. When manifest, the leaf veins often will remain dark while the rest of the leaf becomes lighter. This condition is common with maples, but also presents itself in pin oak, aspen, sweet gum, birch, and various other trees and shrubs.
Idaho soils typically have an alkaline, high pH level, which may cause problems such as nutrient-deficiency chlorosis. In such soil types minor nutrients are often bound within the soil chemistry, making them unattainable by the to the plant roots. The most limiting of the nutrients in a high soil pH system tend to be iron and manganese. Both nutrients present similar symptoms- however, if symptoms are worse on older leaves the most likely culprit is manganese, and likewise, if the symptoms are worse on younger leaves, iron is the likelier nutrient deficiency. In wet periods or under root compaction or damage, symptoms become intensified. Additionally, clay sub-soils aggravate the problem.
Chlorosis is the most common problem that affects plants here in the valley. As always it is a good idea to bring a sample to the nursery for proper identification of the problem and its severity. Digital pictures (Please print them.) can also be useful, however, diagnosis over the phone is difficult at best. So bring your patient in for best chances of recovery.
Be aware, however, that changing the soil pH around a rooted tree is rarely a quick process. The following are a few ways to attack our common nemesis, which we at Adams Gardens will help you to choose based on the current health of the plant. If the plant is severely affected, consider spraying your foliage with a cheated-iron or manganese product, available year-round at the nursery. By testing the product on a small area at first, you may determine which element is limiting by watching for a response. During the growing season, the leaves should become darker green within a week or so if the limiting element was sprayed. This treatment only works on the leaves sprayed, so the effect is temporary and benefit’s the leaves currently expanded only. Newer leaves will not turn darker green.
The midterm treatment in terms of longevity and effective results also requires patience and attention: acidifying the soil can be accomplished by applying copperas or iron applied to the surface and watered. Depending on the severity of the condition, several applications may be required.
The longest term treatment, usually begun once plants have returned to good health, deals with the maintenance of the correct soil PH level. This is generally done with annual to biannual treatments using soil sulfur. Soil sulfur will reduce the alkalinity and maintain the happy median that most plants prefer.
Depending on the time of year and the advancement of the chlorosis we will determine which plan of treatment is best. This way we can keep our favorite plants happy and healthy, even in some of the most difficult soils.

Fall and Winter Gardening: Overseeding and Aeration

Adams Gardens — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:34:47 +0000

Fall and the early winter months can sometimes be the most critical times of the year for lawn care, particularly in the area of preventative measures and ensuring proper nourishment for your lawn. There are two relatively easy practices you can participate in to ensure your lawn wakes up in the spring in peak condition: aeration and overseeding.
Aeration is achieved by simply purchasing or renting an aeration device that consists of cylinder-like spikes or spoons that dig into the earth and break up the soil. The process is a bit like tilling, but occurs in a far more compact and precise manner. The results are a series of half-inch plugs of thatch, pulled out of the ground, allowing increased water penetration, increased respiration, and healthier roots. Aeration combats compacted soil and heavy thatching, two problems that suffocate otherwise beautiful lawns. The best time of year to aerate your lawn is the fall, ensuring excellent stimulation and nourishment of your lawn before winter dormancy settles in.
Another common hurdle in quality lawn care is the deterioration of a lawn due to damage caused by excessive foot traffic, insect infestations, disease, and water deprivation. You can see this damage manifest itself in bald and brown patches, which can be alleviated by overseeding your lawn. The process of overseeding involves spreading a desirable, well-adapted, durable seed strain over the problems areas in your turf. Shade blends should be chosen for shady areas and have a very nice texture. For other areas of your lawn Fescues, Dwarf Fescues, and Bluegrass do well in Idaho environs. If you need a strain resistant to draught conditions, use Dwarf Turf-type Tall Fescue. If you aren’t sure which seeds are best for your lawn, contact Jason or Neal here at the nursery.
Begin the process by eliminating any undesirable crab grasses and die-hard weeds that might have overtaken the trouble areas using “KILLZALL” or a comparable herbicide. After the weeds have died out completely, remove the exterminated weeds and thatch by raking out the soil surface for seeding. Spread the seed using a spreader, or if the area is small, you can spread the seed by hand. Apply soil activator to ensure the soil receives the essential nutrients required for a healthy lawn. Lightly rake the seeds into the soil with a garden rake. To ensure good soil contact with the seed for optimal germination, apply a ¼” mulch or compost composite cover over the seeds, using regular grind bark. Be certain to keep these seeded areas moist, never allowing the top inch or so of the soil to dry out, until the grass grows to a length of at least 2” in height. You may reduce the watering as your new grass becomes established with the rest of your lawn.
Control any new weed growths by applying a broadleaf weed killer after you have mowed the new grass at least four times. Follow up with Iron Plus in the late fall, and your new lawn will wake up in the spring resilient, full, and ready to show off.

Fall and Winter Gardening: Mums and Shrubs

Adams Gardens — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:33:59 +0000

The onset of Fall and the Winter that follows are synonymous, metaphorically and botanically speaking, with the death and dormancy of most species of foliage. However, the Fall months provide some of the best opportunities for improving your lawn and garden with Fall and Winter blooming plants, shrubs, and trees from Adams Gardens. In fact, some experts argue that the most important work a gardener does for the health of one’s garden and lawn is done during this period of “dormancy.”
There are several plant and flower species that are best planted in the Fall. Chrysanthemums, for example, are often fall favorites for many gardeners. The longer nights and shorter days of Fall are the trigger for chrysanthemums to begin the flowering process, before winter sets in. Easy to plant and care for, mums make for a late season delight for gardeners of any experience. Mums can be purchased ready to bloom, buds intact. If you prefer to plant garden cushion mums, pinching them about every three weeks is required, and they need to be planted in June, or early July instead of the Fall months. The purpose of frequently pinching the plants ensures healthy, lush blooms and a tight habit. If you enjoy planting fall mums, there are handfuls of other Fall blooming flowers and plants you can grow to accent your mums, including Fall Asters, ornamental kale and cabbage, and fall Pansies. #
If you’ve considered landscaping with flowering shrubs, there are several Fall flowering shrubs to fit in with any landscape. The air temperature cools, but the early Fall soil remains warm enough to promote new root growth. Planting shrubs in the fall will give them an early start at rooting, and will groom better the following spring after being well-established. Most of the hardy, woody ornamentals may be planted until the soil approaches 40 ° F. Treating the soil with rich organic matter and using a root-starter reduces transplant shock and promotes the formation of feeder roots. The right flowering shrubs can provide season after season of fantastic blooms, from Spring through Fall.
There are many factors to consider when deciding on which shrubbery is best for your lawn. A shrub’s flowers might bloom for only a few weeks, for example, but the foliage stays lush for six months or more. The texture, shape, density, coloring and layering of a shrub’s leaves should therefore be part of your consideration as well. Interesting bark textures and branch growth formations are also part and parcel of the shrub you choose. Fruiting shrubs that produce berries might fit in well in the motif and color of the rest of your yard, or you might prefer to find a species that does not produce enticing berries, particularly if you are concerned with pets or neighborhood wildlife eating them. Remember that to some species, certain barks, leaves, and berries might be toxic.
Whichever shrubs or flowers you plant, despite the time of year, should be chosen to compliment the space you’re planting in. A well-chosen shrub, for instance, should compliment but never overshadow the lines of your house. Always select plants based on their needs for the location you have available. The golden rule of the green thumb: choose the right plant for the right place. For shrubs, trees, and plants of all size and proportion, or for expert advice on which shapes will compliment your home and garden, visit Adams Gardens for a consult!

Installing a New Lawn From Seed

Adams Gardens — Fri, 27 Feb 2009 23:52:59 +0000

Starting with a good soil base will greatly increase germination of seeds and help with overall health of the established lawn. It is advised to till in compost to add organic matter to our typically clay soil. This will provide nutrients and hopefully increase drainage for the initial establishment of the lawn. Common recommended ratios of compost will vary slightly depending on the origin of the compost. A plant based compost can be used at a ratio of two parts natural ground to one part compost. To be safe it is better to use animal based composts at a ratio of three parts natural ground to one part compost. As an example this means that for every two inches you can till into the ground you can apply a layer of one inch of plant based compost. If the soil ph is alkali, most areas in the valley are, adding soil sulfur at a rate of 20 to 50 pounds per a thousand square feet. This will depend on starting ph number and desired amount of lowering.

Next it will be necessary to level the ground to prevent puddles when watering the new seeds. It should also carry a slight grade away from the house. It is also good to be watch the level of an existing trees or shrubs so that they do not end up buried too deep or in areas where excess water may drain. Depending on size of the area being seeded, tools required could range from a tractor to a grading rake. If a sprinkler system has been recently installed turning it on can allow trenches to settle and also provide an opportunity for checking the grade for remaining low spots. This will also encourage the germination of weed seeds allowing a chance to spray and remove some of the fiends before they intermingle with your grass. Use a product containing glyphosate and allow two weeks before installing the grass seed. Just prior to seeding put down New Lawn Starter to feed the seedlings and encourage vigorous rooting.

Fescue grass is recommended for our high desert area. It is drought tolerant, clumping, requires less fertilization, and possibly less mowing than the popular Kentucky Bluegrass. Double dwarf tall fescues are our favorite. It should be seeded at a rate of 9-10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Germination takes 14-21 days. It is wise to purchase extra seed because fescue generally requires an over seeding after first mowing.

Watering should be enough to keep the germinating lawn moist without allowing puddles to form. After first mowing of lawn frequency of watering can be reduced. However, the duration of watering should increase eventually reaching one water cycle per week. No weed killers or fertilizers should be used until after the fourth or fifth mowing. Reading product labels is advisable, looking for special instruction for new lawns. As to mowing, mower depth should be set at two to three inches for fescue. Water should be applied immediately after mowing to help prevent burning as well as conserve the moisture in the blades of grass.

Spring - Time to Get Growing

Adams Gardens — Fri, 27 Feb 2009 18:29:13 +0000

Garden Preparation:
You will need to work the soil, adding organic matter and Soil Activator, to encourage an ideal growing medium.
(For any root crops, such as potatoes or carrots, add some bone meal.) Now let us discuss appropriate planting times for the vegetables in our valley.

Crop (starting from)	Average Planting Date	Planting depth (inches)	Spacing (inches)
Beans (seed)	May 10th	1-1.5	3-4
Beets (seed)	March 25th	1	2-3
Broccoli (plant)	March 15th		14-24
Cabbage (seed)	March 15th	.5	14-24
Cantaloupe (seed0	May 5th	1	72
Carrots (seed)	April 5th	.5	2-3
Cauliflower (plant)	March 15th		14-24
Corn (seed)	April 30th	2	10
Cucumber (seed)	May 15th	.5	72
Eggplant (seed)	May 10th	.5	36
Lettuce, Head (seed)	March 15th	.25	12
Lettuce, Leaf (seed)	March 5th	.25	6
Onion (set or plant)	March 15th	1-2	2-3
Peas (seed)	March 15th	2-3	1
Pepper (plant)	May 10th		18-24
Potato (seed)	March 20th	4	10-12
Radish (seed)	March 15th	.5	1
Spinach (seed)	March 5th	.5	3-4
Squash (seed)	May 5th	1-2	48
Tomato (plant)	May 10th		18-36
Turnip (seed)	March 15th	.25-.5	2-3
Watermelon (seed)	May 5th	1-2	96

*Special garden tip* For those who hate to pull endless weeds in the garden, putting weed barrier down prior to planting can greatly reduce the weeding back strain.
Once plants are in carefully watch the weather for dangerous temperatures. Frost can be detrimental to the tender seedlings. To avoid the possibility of a replant it is a good idea to have “hot caps” or “walls of water” on hand for nighttime protection. Plastic is not an advisable frost protector because the cold will easily transfer through the plastic and potentially frost the plant.
Happy gardening and a good harvest to you!